The short answer
Direct answer
In the first hour: stop the water at its source or the main shutoff, keep clear of standing water where electricity may be involved, photograph everything before moving it, lift contents off wet floors, and start air moving. Do not use a household vacuum on water and do not throw anything away before photographing it.
Do these first
Everything in this list can be done before anyone arrives, and each one measurably changes the outcome or the claim.
- Shut the water at the fixture stop or the main
- Stay out of standing water near electrical components
- Photograph every room and the source before moving anything
- Write down the discovery time and when the area was last dry
- Lift contents off wet flooring
- Put foil or blocks under furniture legs
- Open interior doors and cupboards so air can move
- Find and keep the plumber's or roofer's written description of what failed
Do not do these
Each of these is a common first reaction that makes the loss larger, the claim weaker, or both.
- Do not use a household or shop vacuum on water
- Do not throw anything away before it is photographed
- Do not open windows to "air it out" in humid weather
- Do not lift wet carpet yourself if the water may be contaminated
- Do not restore power to anything that was submerged
- Do not describe the timeline loosely on the phone to an insurer
- Do not sign a document with the scope or price left blank
Start the restoration request
Need restoration service for this property?
Send the address, callback number and a short description of the damage. You do not need to diagnose the problem before requesting help.
What to have ready when you call
Having these to hand turns a first call into a useful one and avoids a second visit for information.
- Service address, and the unit or floor if it applies
- What happened and when you found it
- Whether water is still arriving
- Which rooms and levels are affected
- Whether the property is occupied
- Best callback number
- Whether the property is on municipal service or a private well and septic
Why this order
The sequence is not arbitrary. Stopping the water first is the only step that changes how much damage there will be; everything after it manages damage that has already happened. Electrical risk comes second because it is the only step where getting it wrong injures somebody.
Photography comes before moving anything because it is the only part of this list that cannot be done later. Cleanup that happens before the record exists destroys evidence you will be asked for, and no amount of care afterwards recreates it.
Step by step
The first hour after discovering water damage
A printable sequence covering the actions that matter most in the first hour, before any contractor arrives.
Stop the water
Shut the fixture stop or the main shutoff. If water is coming from above or outside, note where it is entering. Drying cannot start while water is still arriving.Check for electrical risk
Do not enter standing water where it may have reached outlets, appliances or a panel. If in any doubt, keep out and have an electrician assess it before anyone goes in.Photograph everything
Every affected room, the source, the water line on walls and contents in place — before anything is moved. This record cannot be recreated and it is what the claim rests on.Note the time
Write down when you discovered it and when you last saw the area dry. The elapsed time drives the material decisions and the insurance characterisation.Lift and separate
Get contents up off wet floors, put foil or blocks under furniture legs, and lift the skirts of upholstered furniture clear of wet carpet.Get air moving
Open interior doors and cupboards in the affected area. In humid weather use dehumidification rather than opening windows.Call for the source and the structure
A plumber or roofer for what failed, and a restoration company for the wet building materials. Most losses need both, in that order.
Clear answers
Common questions
Can I use a shop vacuum on the water?
A wet-rated vacuum used with the right power arrangement can remove surface water; a household vacuum cannot and is an electrical hazard. Neither removes what has soaked into materials, which is the part that decides the outcome.
Should I open the windows?
It depends on the outdoor conditions. In cold dry weather ventilation helps; in July and August, warm humid outdoor air entering a cool space adds moisture rather than removing it. When in doubt, close up and let the drying equipment do it.
How long do I have before this becomes a mold problem?
In a warm building with wet porous materials, growth can begin within a couple of days. That is the whole reason this checklist is about the first hour rather than the first day.
Do I need to keep the wet materials?
Photograph everything before disposal, and keep samples of anything unusual or high-value where you can. An insurer can ask about materials that are already gone, and photographs are the answer.
Should I wait for the insurer before starting?
No. Policies generally require you to prevent further damage, and delay makes the loss worse. Document thoroughly and get mitigation under way.
Can I dry it myself with fans?
Household fans move surface air. They do not dry a building assembly and give you no readings. They can help a small clean-water spill; they do not substitute for structural drying.
How quickly does this need to happen?
As soon as it is safe. The gap between the loss and the start of drying is the single largest cost variable, because it determines how much material can be dried instead of removed.
What if I find it days later?
The steps are the same, and the inspection matters more. Photograph before disturbing anything and expect more material to be affected than is visible.
Authoritative references
Sources used on this page
Time-sensitive rules and public guidance should be checked at the source before work begins.